HUB PROJECT 5 - REWORKED:
Lumion Renders + Video
Revit Rendering:
Revit modelling:
MIP St. Michaels Community Project
Revit modelling:
Project diary: DAY 1
What are my expectations of this project?
Learning a lot about details and how a structure is built step by step.
What was i involved in today?
We all measured up the site, drew quick diagrams and submitted a final site drawing
What did i learn today?
The context of the site
Other comments
Today was a good day, the site measuring wasn't that hard and we all got to meet most of the kids and see who we are dealing with.
Project diary: DAY 2
What are my expectations of today?
To design as a group
How did i experience the design exercise?
It was fun and interesting and didn't just involve working as a group but generating own designs aswell.
What are my expectations of this project?
Learning a lot about details and how a structure is built step by step.
What was i involved in today?
We all measured up the site, drew quick diagrams and submitted a final site drawing
What did i learn today?
The context of the site
Other comments
Today was a good day, the site measuring wasn't that hard and we all got to meet most of the kids and see who we are dealing with.
Project diary: DAY 2
What are my expectations of today?
To design as a group
How did i experience the design exercise?
It was fun and interesting and didn't just involve working as a group but generating own designs aswell.
What did i learn today?
The material limitation explored a lateral way of thinking and trying to resolve the problem
Other comments
no
Project diary: DAY 3
What are my expectations of today?
To start building with complete chaos and many people not knowing what to do
How did i experience the on site exercise?
I was very surprised at the organisation of every step and students being allocated in teams. The tools were monitored and safety was a big issue wish is good.
What did i learn today?
some angle-grinding techniques and breaking things apart in a efficient way.
Other comments
It was a good day, just a pitty about the weather, but enjoyed my day on site.
Project diary: DAY 4
What are my expectations of today?
Going in to tech to do a C.T.D exercise
How did i experience the C.T.D exercise?
The detail exercises was very helpful
What did i learn today?
different roof/floor/timber slat detailing styles
Other comments
I liked the learning approach
Project diary: DAY 5
What are my expectations of today?
To start construction on the chosen design
How did i experience the on site exercise?
Did some drilling and screwing maintenance work
What did i learn today?
To work as a team can speed things up a lot but too many people at one small job can slow it down too.
Other comments
Day on site was productive. gaining a lot of experience.
Project diary: DAY 6
What are my expectations of today?
Going in to tech to do a C.T.D exercise
How did i experience the C.T.D exercise?
Steel detailing was very new to me and informative
What did i learn today?
different ways of joining steel.
Other comments
Very informative exercise.
Project diary: DAY 7
What are my expectations of today?
To actually build the main structure we designed.
How did i experience the on site exercise?
Solved problems on site installed the deck, doing a lot of measurements and drilling and screwing together.
What did i learn today?
That old materials can be re-used. planning is important.
Other comments
Good day on site
Project diary: DAY 8
What are my expectations of today?
To draw up our site at St. Michaels.
How did i experience the C.T.D exercise?
The exercise was good. learnt new things of the site.
What did i learn today?
I liked the fact that everyone had their own role to play
Other comments
Was a very good exercise
Project diary: DAY 9
What are my expectations of today?
To finish up and put on the final touches , then braai.
How did i experience the on site exercise?
interesting and satisfying to see results
What did i learn today?
one can stil achieve desired outcomes with compensations it just requires a little planning.
Other comments
A good end to a good project
WHALE PROJECT: 2012
I started looking at different whales so i can study the main elements to recognise a whale
We had to incorporate or provide space for containers within the structure or separate for the purpose of having shops inside to sell items to tourists/visitors. I researched the sizes and what it looks like
I started drawing sketches and analysing the brief
Here I looked at the precedent studies and redrew some of them in my own style to get the feeling of the designs and the elements that were used to recognise a whale.
Here I started looking at interior space inside the structure. Playing around with mezzanine level.
I started playing around with sculptural shapes to become more abstract and move away from the conventional obvious shape of a whale.
I wanted to have a walk through space in the structure and incorporate the shops inside the sculpture. At the same time provide space for people to walk on top to get a bit of a view, where they could sit down and enjoy eats n drinks.
My final 2 designs:
1) the shops entrance is in front where the whales mouth is and the ramp to the top is accessible from inside.
2) The shop entrance is still in the front at the whale's mouth but the access to the ramp to the top is on the sides.
HUB PROJECT: 2012 Exercise 4 + 5
My main idea is an open air stage for entertainment with the concept of a seashell/cone as it projects sound very well. The lines of a seashell are strong and horizontal, like an over lapping layer. I incorporated that horizontal line element in different roof components that overlay each other, creating a dome effect.
Here are some concept models I built:
The first model I merely played around with shape:
The second model I looked at the horizontal lines but in an abstract way:
Based on my 2nd concept model; In this design I used the local precedent study of the Greenpoint Park visit using the gumpole detailing, keeping the sides open for attraction of public.
I then looked at controlling acoustics more and incorporating the elements of a seashell as well. the different layers suggests strong horizontal lines and almost brings out the image of a weathered semi-broken seashell that lays in the sand. The reason for the different layers is to receive enough indirect sunlight by letting in light through the gaps and attraction of public but without them seeing the whole show luring to come around and enjoy from the front.
The third model I focused on controlling acoustics an bringing out the elements of a seashell more:
I want to better my design and make my concept stronger my allowing the arched marine ply components to rise out of the ground and hide the stage inside. I will post sketches in the future; the part of the marine ply buried in the ground will be encased with steel and grounded with concrete footings. The stage will rest on concrete blocks with steel rods, cased inside that will be fixed to the marine ply roof components to pull it in and counter act the exerting forces of the bending moment. A berm of soil will then surround the roof components on the outside, to hide the grounded fixture and emphasize the half buried structure.
Eco beams will be used between the 2 layers of marine ply of each roof component to reinforce it.
I will scale down the structure to be suitable for a smaller performance like e.g. a 3 man band.
I will incorporate gum poles as landscaping creating a transitional space inviting the public and creating harmonious flow to the WiFi tower, which will be positioned further away from the the dome. This space will also be the gathering space for the public to enjoy the performance.
28 May 2012: Exercise5
I looked at creating transitional spacing with the gum poles and incorporating the flow of the marine-ply roof components and leading to the WiFi tower so that the tower becomes part of the design and not a complete afterthought.
I realized that this secludes the space and limits it to a closed off space for public viewing which is not very versatile. So I decided I have to incorporate the tower differently. I also re-looked at my concept and thought about sound and how it travels: It starts off small and solid (loud) at source and as it travels it scatters out and disperses softer. So I decided to look at ways how I can incorporate that solid to scattered effect in my design and thought of deconstruction.
I also looked at other dome stages and how its fixed together:
WiFi Tower:
I looked at the tower and how i can incorporate the tower becoming part of the design
I then thought that maybe it can have more than one function and not just stand as a WiFi tower but also become a support structure in the design.
FINAL DESIGN:
FOR BETTER QUALITY VIEWING OF BELOW WORKING DRAWINGS PLEASE USE THE FOLLOWING LINKS:
RESEARCH:
Marine Plywood sizes: http://www.hstimbers.co.za/plywood.htm
Eco Beam: (steel bracing) http://www.ecobeam.co.za/ http://www.ecobuildtechnologies.com/
Seashell images: http://www.google.com/seashells/
Dome images: http://www.google.com/dome stages/
Calatrava images/ http://www.google.com/calatrava buildings/
Seashell images: http://www.google.com/seashells/
Dome images: http://www.google.com/dome stages/
Calatrava images/ http://www.google.com/calatrava buildings/
- Ecobeams can be manufactured at any location with minimum facilities.
- Adjustments to Ecobeam lengths are easily made.
- Ecobeams are easy to handle and economical to transport.
- All Ecobeams are straight and uniform in size, despite variations in timber size, because they are manufactured on a straight edge jig.
- Easy joining makes it possible to produce any length.
- Curves can be built into Ecobeams.
- Ecobeams can be "pre-stressed" by routing a groove in the bottom chord and tensioning a cable placed in the groove.
- Both lattice and timber can be painted or varnished to achieve a pleasant effect.
- Top and bottom chords can be of different sizes or different timber species.
- If a "solid beam" appearance is required, the Ecobeam can be boxed.
- The Ecobeams allow for services and ventilation to be installed in walls, ceilings and under floors.
- Bent or warped timber chords will be straightened in the assembly process.
- Bolts can be used through top and bottom chords of the Ecobeam.
- Rectangular timber chords can be used on either of their two dimensions to produce Ecobeams of different stress qualities.
- The use of Ecobeams typically saves two thirds of the timber used in a classic timber frame construction.
(extract out of pdf) - wood finishes
Particleboard
Daniel L. Cassens, Department of Forestry and Natural Resources, Purdue University, and
William C. Feist, Forest Products Laboratory, Forest Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture
Plywood, hard board and particleboard (waferboard
and chipboard) are manufactured or reconstituted
wood products as compared to solid wood
(Figure 1). These products were introduced to the
construction industry in the 1940s and are so
common today that nearly every new house has at
least some plywood, hardboard and particleboard in
it. Like solid lumber, these manufactured products
will give satisfactory performance if properly
finished, but certain precautions must be taken —
even before the building is constructed.
CARE AND PREPARATION BEFORE
CONSTRUCTION
Long life for an exterior wood finish begins during
construction. Building products, whether they be
plywood, particleboard (waferboard and chipboard),
hard board or solid lumber, should be
protected on the building site. If possible, store them
in a cool, dry place and out of the sunlight and
weather. If stored outside, keep the material off the
ground by stacking it on 4 × 4’s or similar material,
and cover with polyethylene to prevent wetting by
rain. Provide for good air circulation to prevent
condensation under the plastic covering.
Plywood, hardboard and particleboard all tend to
absorb moisture through the ends and edges of the
panel faster than through the surface. While the
panels are still in a stack, seal the ends and edges
with a liberal amount of a water-repellent preservative
or water repellent applied with a brush. Allow at
least two days for the water-repellent preservative or
water repellent to dry before painting. If the panel
faces are to be primed and painted, apply the same
finish to the edges. Any edges which are cut during
construction should also be sealed.
Ferrous nails can leave unsightly rust stains on
plywood and other board products. Use high quality
galvanized nails on surfaces to be painted. Aluminum,
stainless steel or high quality galvanized
nails should be used if a water-repellent preservative,
water repellent or semitransparent penetrating
stain is to be used.
Regardless of the type of finish used, the surface
to which it is applied should be clean and dry. Do
finishing work only in clear weather. Avoid applying
finishes to exceedingly hot or cold surfaces. Paint
should not be applied to a cold surface which will
soon be heated by the sun since temperature blisters
are likely. Brushing a finish on gives better
penetration.
PLYWOOD -- FINISHING
AND REFINISHING
Exterior plywood is commonly used for siding. For
this application it should have a rough sawn surface
(textured) or be overlaid with a stabilized, resintreated
paper called medium density paper overlay
(MDO). Smooth sanded plywood is not recommended
for siding, but it may be used for soffits.
Depending upon its intended end use, plywood may
be manufactured from several different wood
species. Southern pine and Douglas-fir textured
plywood are commonly used in siding applications.
The grade of siding used determines the appearance
as well as the wood color. Cedar and redwood are
Figure 1. Plywood (left),
particleboard, waferboard and
hardboard (right) are
manufactured or reconstituted
wood products, When painting
or staining, special precautions
should be taken.
Figure 2. Moisture enters plywood
through lathe checks (above)
and early paint failure can
result (below). Paint will flake
from the dense summerwood first.
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Figure 3. Lap marks result with the improper
applicatlon of a penetrating stain.
also commonly used where appearance is impor- penetration and performance especially on textured
tant. Textured-plywood surfaces are probably the
most common for exterior siding.
Sanded and roughsawn plywood will develop
surface checks, especially when exposed to moisture
and sunlight. These checks, coupled with the
flat grain pattern (wide bands of dark, dense
latewood) characteristic of nearly all plywood, can
lead to early paint failure (Figure 2). These paint
failures can be minimized by the use of top quality
acrylic latex paint systems.
Semitransparent Stains
Unlike paints, semitransparent penetrating oilbase
stains cannot check and peel from plywood
surfaces. These stains penetrate the wood and do
not form a continuous film or coating like paint.
Semitransparent penetrating stains allow most of
the wood grain to show through, and the color can
be controlled by pigments added to the stain. A
properly chosen stain can accentuate the architectural
intent of the textured plywood. Penetrating
stains also perform well on weathered surfaces.
New, smooth surfaces may also be stained.
Oil-base penetrating stains have a longer life
expectancy when properly applied to roughsawn or
weathered surfaces. Semitransparent stains may be
brushed or rolled on. Brushing should give better
surfaces. These stains are generally thin and runny,
so application can be a little messy. Lap marks will
form if stains are improperly applied (Figure 3). Lap
marks can be prevented by staining only a small
number of boards or a panel at one time. This
method prevents the front edge of the stained areas
from drying out before a logical stopping place is
reached. Working in the shade is desirable because
the drying rate is slower. The penetrating stain
should be stirred frequently during application. One
gallon will usually cover about 300-400 square feet
of smooth surface and from 150-250 square feet of
rough surface.
For long life with penetrating oil-base stain on
rough sawn or weathered lumber, use two coats and
apply the second coat before the first is dry. Apply
the first coat to a panel or area as you would to
prevent lap marks. Then work on another area so the
first coat can soak into the wood for 20 to 60 minutes.
Apply the second coat before the first coat has dried.
(If the first dries completely, it may seal the wood
surface so that the second coat cannot penetrate
into the wood). About an hour after applying the
second coat, use a cloth or sponge to wipe off the
excess stain that has not penetrated into the wood.
Stain which did not penetrate may form an unsightly
surface film and glossy spots.
3
Note: Sponges or cloths that are wet with oil-base
stain are particularly susceptible to spontaneous
combustion. To prevent fires, bury them, immerse
them in water, or seal them in an airtight container
immediately after use.
A two coat wet system on rough wood may last as
long as 10 years. If only one coat of penetrating stain
is used on new wood, its expected life is 2-4 years,
but succeeding coats will last longer.
Refinishing semitransparent penetrating oil-base
stains is relatively easy. Excessive scraping and
sanding are not required. Simply use a stiff bristle
brush to remove all surface dirt, dust and loose wood
fibers, and then apply a new coat of stain. The
surface should be free of mildew. A longer service
life can be expected for penetrating stains the
second time they are applied since they will
penetrate the many small surface checks which
open up as wood weathers.
Water-Repellent Preservatives
Water-repellent preservatives can also be used as
a natural finish for plywood. Water-repellent
preservatives are mixtures of a solvent such as
mineral spirits or other paint thinners, wax, a resin or
drying oil and a wood preservative such as pentachlorophenol
or copper naphthenate. These finishes,
like semitransparent stains, penetrate the
wood and do not form a surface film, so peeling will
not be a problem. Since they do not contain any
coloring pigments, they will allow the natural wood
color and grain to show through. Expected service
life is only 1 to 2 years, and frequent reapplication is
necessary to protect the wood surface.
Water-repellent preservatives are best applied by
dipping, but brush treatment to the point of refusal is
also satisfactory. It is especially important to apply
liberal amounts of the solution to all joints or other
potential places where moisture might accumulate.
Be certain to treat the horizontal bottom edges of
any panels.
Refinishing water-repellent preservatives is
accomplished by simply cleaning the old surface
with a bristle brush and applying a new coat of finish.
To determine if a water-repellent preservative has
lost its effectiveness, splash a small quantity of water
against the wood. If the water beads up and runs off
the surface, the treatment is still effective. If the
water soaks in, the wood needs to be refinished.
Refinishing is also required when the wood surface
shows signs of graying.
Water repellents are sometimes used in the same
manner as water-repellent preservatives. However,
they do not contain a wood preservative and will not
protect against surface mold and mildew.
Note: Steel wool and wire brushes should not be
used to clean surfaces which will be finished with
semitransparent stains or water-repellent preservatives.
Small iron deposits left on the surface can
react with certain wood extratives to form a darkblue,
unsightly discoloration which is sealed
beneath the new finishing system.
Paints
In some cases, painting of plywood is required or
desirable. Top quality acrylic latex paints are the
best choice for exterior surfaces. For best performance,
use MDO plywood if it is to be painted. Paint
on MDO will not fail from checking of the wood or
from peeling because of the wide dark bands of
summerwood. One primer coat and two top coats
may last up to 10 years on MDO. Semitransparent
penetrating stains are not effective on MDO.
Refinishing of MDO is usually required only to
restore the eroded paint coat. First, remove all loose
paint with a stiff bristle brush and then scrub with a
soft brush or sponge and water. Rub your hand
against the cleaned surface to determine if any
residues remain. When necessary, scrubbing with a
detergent or paint cleaner will usually remove
additional residues. Then rinse well and allow to dry
before repainting.
If non-overlaid plywood is to be painted, follow
these tips. First, brush a liberal quantity of waterrepelient
preservative or water repellent onto all the
edges of the plywood sheets. The surface should
also be treated in the same manner. The water
repellent will help reduce wood’s tendency to
absorb moisture through the end grain and surface
lathe checks. Allow the water-repellent preservative
or water repellent to dry for at least two warm days.
Then prime the plywood surface with a high quality
paint recommended for use on woods which contain
extratives. The primer should be applied thick
enough to obscure the wood grain pattern. Two
coats of a high quality acrylic latex house paint
should be applied over the primer. Allow at least two
days but no longer than two weeks between the
primer and top coat. The primer and topcoat should
be compatible and preferably from the same
manufacturer.
Mildew frequently forms in soffits and on ceilings
of porches and carports. Mildew is common in many
areas, and it is probably best to always use a mildew
resistant paint. Always remove the mildew before
refinishing.
Refinishing painted plywood requires proper
surface preparation if the new paint coat is to give
the expected performance. First, scrape away all
loose paint. Use sandpaper on any remaining paint
to “feather the edges” smooth with the bare wood.
Then scrub the remaining paint with a brush or
sponge and water. Household bleach (5% sodium
hypochlorite) used at the rate of 1 cup of bleach to 3
cups of water will remove mildew. Rinse the surface
with clean water. Wipe the surface with your hand. If
the surface is still dirty or chalky, scrub it again using
a detergent or paint cleaner. Rinse the surface
thoroughly with clean water, and allow it to dry
before repainting. Areas of exposed wood should be
treated with a water-repellent preservative or water
repellent and allowed to dry for at least two days and
4
then primed. One or preferably two top coats should
follow.
It is particularly important to clean areas protected
from sun and rain such as porches and side
walls protected by overhangs. These areas tend to
collect water soluble materials that interfere with
adhesion of the new paint. It is probably adequate to
repaint these protected areas every other time the
house is painted.
RECONSTITUTED WOOD PRODUCTS –
FINISHING AND REFINISHING
Reconstituted wood products are those made by
forming large sheets, usually 4 by 8 feet, from small
pieces of wood or pulp. Specialized sizes or
products such as beveled drop siding may also be
produced. Reconstituted wood products may be
smooth or textured to look like standard lumber.
Depending upon the basic wood component used in
their manufacture, reconstituted wood products
may be classified as fiberboard or particleboard.
Fiberboards are produced from mechanical pulps.
Hardboard is a relatively heavy type of fiberboard
and is used for exterior siding. Many grades are
available.
Particleboard are manufactured from whole
wood in the form of flakes, shavings, chips or
splinters. Waferboard and flakeboard are two types
of particleboard made from relatively large flakes or
shavings.
Reconstituted wood products can be purchased
unfinished, primed, with a top coat, or stained.
Because of the many different types of fiberboard
and particleboard products available, most retail
lumber dealers do not carry a complete line but can
order any special items.
Only some fiberboards and particleboard are
manufactured for exterior use. Be sure to check with
the supplier, and follow the manufacturer’s directions
in using and finishing these board type
products. Film-forming finishes such as acrylic latex
paints and solid color acrylic Iatex stains will give the
most protection. Other finishes such as semitransparent
stains allow a more rapid deterioration
of the surface to take place.
To paint hard board and particleboard, follow
good finishing practices as recommended for
plywood. Be sure to seal all edges with a waterrepellent
preservative or water repellent. The
surface should be treated with the same solution.
Then apply a primer coat recommended for use over
wood, followed by at least one high quality top coat
of acrylic latex house paint.
Some reconstituted wood products may be
factory primed with paint and some may even have a
top coat. Factory primed boards should not be
allowed to weather for more than a couple of weeks
before top coating. If excessive weathering does
occur, clean the factory primed surface, and then
reprime and follow with two top coats.
Reconstituted wood products may be refinished
by following those procedures recommended for
plywood.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914,
in cooperation with the U. S, Department of Agriculture and Cooperative Extension Services of Illinois, Iowa,
Kansas, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, North Dakota, Ohio, South Dakota and Wisconsin.
H. G, Diesslin, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, Purdue University, West Lafayette, Indiana 47907.
New 11/80
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ALL WORK DONE BY RUACH OOSTHUIZEN
